A great pattern for use on be used on it's own, or as a control
fly when Czech Nymphing, or as the heavier dropper fly on a New Zealand or
upstream nymphing rig. Can be tied smaller, unweighted, and also even
without a bead. Can be used to target trout as well, with few variations.


HOOK: Heavy Wire Scud Hook - # 10 to #8 (or smaller when tied unweighted, without a bead, etc)
ABDOMEN: Marabou fibres, Olive (You can tie it with different tan, brown, ginger, and even white)
RIB: 4X tippet and a single strand of crinkle flash, colour to match abdomen, wound into a rope.
THORAX: Black Peacock Superbrite Dubbing (Substitute: SLF Dubbing, or similar)
WEIGHT: Lead wire
SHELL-BACK: Thin-Skin (colour to suit abdomen. In this case, we are using light olive, but dark olive or mottled olive can be used)
FLASH: (Under Shell-Back, optional) Lateral Scale flash
BEAD: Tungsten or Brass, gold colour. Size to match hook.
THREAD: Olive 8/0


STEP 1. Mount your hook as shown, after de-barbing it and slipping the bead on. If weight is
required, add lead wraps as shown, and secure with thread.

STEP 2. At the back of the hook bend, secure in the 4X tippet and the strand of crinkle flash.

STEP 3. Cut a piece of thin skin out, for the shell-back. Make a "V" notch in it as shown,
to make tying it in easier.

STEP 4. Tie in the "V" side of the thin skin at the point where you tied in the ribbing material.

STEP 5. Tie in a strand of lateral scale, also at the back, on top of the thin-skin.

STEP 6. Break some fluffy fibres off your marabou feathers, and dub a thin noodle around
your tying thread. Remember to spin in one direction only.

STEP 7. Wind the noodle forward in tight turns, to form the body. Don't worry about
going too far forward at this stage. Make sure there are no gaps and that the lead wraps
are covered. Don't make it too bulky! This will hinder the fly in sinking fast through
the water column.

STEP 8. Now spin a thin noodle of Black Peacock Superbrite around the thread. Make sure you dub
the material onto the thread in one direction only (roll it onto the thread with your fingers
in one direction only).

STEP 9. Wrap the dubbing noodle around the hook, behind the bead as shown, forming the thorax.
End the bare thread just behind the bead.

STEP 10. Now we're going to tie in the other materials that was secured at the hook bend,
in reverse order. First, pull the lateral scale forward over the top of the fly, and secure with three wraps
just behind the hook eye. Don't trim it at this stage

STEP 11. Pull the thin skin over the top of the fly, covering the lateral scale and the top of the fly.
Make sure it's centered on top, and that the lateral scale is in the middle of the thin skin, underneath.
Secure the thin skin just behind the bead with a few turns of thread. Don't trim the thin skin.

STEP 12. Now put the 4X tippet and the crinkle flash strand in a pair of hackle pliers,
and spin into a "rope" as shown.

STEP 13. Now carefully wind the rib forward, creating the segmentation on the fly.
Once behind the bead, secure with a few thread wraps. Whip finish and apply a drop of
head cement to the thread wraps.

STEP 14. Once the head cement is dry, take a permanent marker (colour of the thorax)
and colour the top of the thin skin, the same area as the thorax is, as shown. Then brush
out the sides of the fly, to represent the "gills" on the caddis nymph. The marabou fibres
really make this pattern come alive! (See pic below, from the top)

DONE! Go fish it!
We fish this fly as a the primary fly, on dropper or as part of a three-fly Czech Nymph rig. It will be the control fly.
We fish it New Zealand style in rivers, or upstream nymphing style, on a dead drift with a strike indicator.
It is a great representation of the big "Vaal Caddis" or Green Rock Worm found in the Vaal river and other rivers.
It is deadly for smallmouth yellowfish, as well as large- and smallscale yellowfish when tied on smaller hooks.