FLY - CADDIS (Colour: Ginger)
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is perfect for the Vaal and Smallmouth Yellows, and can be used as a
nymphing (Czech-nymphing) or as the point fly while dead-drifting New
With a Bead head, it's
a great control fly, and without a beadhead tied in smaller sizes (even
without lead wire)
it's a fantastic
dropper fly too. If I tie them in smaller sizes like # 12, #14 and #16,
I tie them with no lead wire
and with a bead or
without a bead, and use them as dropper flies. It imitates the brown
Vaal river caddis larvae that
occur in the river system, and the bigger green rock worm caddis larvae
that are usually green and olive in colour.
Pick up any rock in the riffles and you will see them in their cases
attached to the bottom of the rocks.
HOOK: # 8 or #10 Scud Hook, Heavy
Wire (For can tie down to #16, with or without bead, smaller sizes uses
no lead wire for weighting)
4mm Brass, Gold or Tungsten (For smaller hooks, match bead size to hook
6/0 Rust or Brown (For other colour flies, match thread colour with
4X Mono & Single Strand of Ginger Crinkle Flash
Ginger Thin Skin, Translucent
SLF Ginger coloured Dubbing (Alternative: Any fine, easy to use dubbing
with a little shine to it)
0.015mm Lead Wire
Required: Brown Permanent Marker, to colour scud-back over
Cut a piece of Thin Skin, as shown above, about 4 or 5mm wide X 25mm
long. Cut a point in
as shown...this will
make tying it in easier and neater. Do not peel it off the cardboard
Step 2. Debarb your
hook, slide the bead on, and mount it in your vise.
Wrap a layer of lead wire onto the hook shank, starting on the left. Go
right to the front,
and then wrap a second
layer of lead wire back over the first layer. Make sure to wrap it
Step 4. Start your
thread on the left of the hook shank, next to the lead wire. Wrap a few
to make a nice taper,
and to ensure the lead wire does not move back.
Step 5. Take a 20cm
piece of 4X mono filament, and tie it in the back. Tie the mono down,
and continue back down
the hook bend, to a point as shown above.
Step 6. Now take one
strand of Ginger Crinkle Flash, and tie it in the same spot as the mono.
Step 7. Now peel off
the thin skin from it's cardboard back. Place it next to the hook shank
as shown, to the side...
not on top, as when you
start tying it in, it will tend to move away from you. Starting from
this position will
ensure that the thin
skin end up right on top of the hook shank.
Step 8. Start tying the
thin skin is as shown, moving down.
Step 9. This is what
you will end up having. The thin skin is now right where the mono and
the crinkle flash is
Step 10. Now spin a
thin noodle of the ginger dubbing onto the thread. Roll the dubbing
onto the thread with
your thumb and middle finger, while holding the bobbin in your left
in ONE direction only.
Step 11. Now wind the
dubbing noodle over the hook shank, moving forward towards the hook-eye.
Make sure there are no
gaps, but also that there are no bulky build-ups or bumps. Take it to
a point just before the
bead, as shown.
Step 12. Now spin
another thin noodle of dubbing with brown superbrite dubbing.
This will form the
Step 13. Wind the
noodle froward to the bead, making sure it is the same size
approximately as the body.
Step 14. Now gently
stretch the thin skin over the dubbing on top, to form the scud-back.
Take a few turns of
thread right behind the bead, to secure the thin skin.
Step 15. Stretch the
thin skin gently upwards, and cut it just above the thread. Keep
your bobbin and the
thread, and make a few more turns of thread to secure it down.
Step 16. Now take the
strands of mono and crinkle flash, put them together and put both ends
of the strands
in a hackle pliers.
Then spin the hackle pliers, so that the mono and the flash spin
together and form a rope.
Make the first turn of
this rope right behind the butt of the fly, and then start moving up,
forming the rib. Make about 6 or 7
turns with the
mono/flash, to form the rib over the body. Then an additional two over
the thorax. Once the ribbing
is right behind the
bead, take two or three turns of the thread to secure the ribbing.
Step 17. Now cut the
ribbing off close to the bead, and make a few more tight wraps of the
Whip finish and apply a
drop of head cement onto the thread wraps. Put the fly aside to dry.
One it's dry, take your
brown permanent marker and colour in the top of the thorax. You will
be colouring the first
three segments basically, closest to the bead.
Here is a top view of
the completed fly, with the section of thin skin that is over the
already coloured in
with the brown permanent marker.
This is a #10 hook,
with no bead, but with the same amount of lead wire underneath, for
is excellent for
Smallmouth Yellowfish. Tied in different colour combinations they are
highly effective. Some smaller colour combo's
will work on trout
rivers too, where
the caddis larvae exists. Other colour combos that work well is as
follows: (Body/Thorax colours)
Olive/Black, Life cycle green/Black, Cream/Light Brown, White/Brown,
The #8 and #10 flies
with bead heads
and lots of weight is used as "control flies"...the flies that gets the
setup to the bottom
of the river bed. In
smaller sizes like #12, #14 AND #16, those flies are used for droppers
that complete the
rest of the setup.
These flies are highly effective whether you are Czech-nymphing or
dead-drift fishing with an indicator, or
New Zealand style
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